Money money money, must be funny, in a rich (white) mans world.

The Maasai markets.

Nairobi's version of Portobello Road in Notting Hill, or the Queen Vic markets in Melbourne (on a smaller scale)... It's the place to buy your trinkets and souvenirs and they can spot a mzungu a mile away (obviously!)

It goes without saying that I wanted to do some shopping. There's something about curios and trinkets to remember a trip or experience and just seeing some of the lovely arts and crafts is always exciting. I made a list of the types of items I wanted to get for myself and my family back home for Christmas and with my very own Kenyan in tow, we went to browse the goods.

I had read blog entries and articles about markets in Kenya, it's all about the bargaining. I'm not used to doing that back home, haggling can be considered rude if done in the wrong place so I wanted to find out what the norm is here. 

As soon as they saw me, it was "hello sister! Come see my shop" or "jambo, just a few minutes of your time please madam..." I politely told them all that I was just looking first, to see the whole market and if I came back around I might visit them. It's so pushy and you're constantly declining invitations to buy, even saying "I'm not looking for those today thank you" usually falls on deaf ears.

As soon as we had done a loop around, E asked me if I had spotted what I wanted to buy, when I said yes I saw a least three things..he said, "right now we go get the best price".

The initial price they ask for is ridiculous. For example, I really wanted some little kiisi stone animals, which you can buy everywhere. In the shops they range from about $2-4 each depending where and how big they are. One seller got me to select which ones I liked and he would "give me a good deal, cheapest at markets". Yeah right, 5 little characters no larger than eggs, he wrote down his price on some paper and told me he would name is price, then I would name mine. No mor bargaining- mine would win. I had read up on this paper and pen technique so I was ready for it and knew what was expected.

His price? 4500ksh ($50+ Aussie dollars) 

I laughed. I actually looked at him as said, 'that's ridiculous. I've seen them for 200ksh each in my local mall!'

So the conversation goes, I name my price. I decided on 500ksh (100 each). He said that one of the statues was bigger and he couldn't agree, but he would let me have the other 4 for that price. I told him that was fine, I'll take the four. Then he decided to tempt me with the 5th one for another 300ksh. I declined and told him I only have 500ksh to spend on them. My hubby jumps in and says loudly 'we can get them cheaper elsewhere, let's go' and that sold the deal. The seller wrapped them up and I handed over 500ksh (about $7). Apparently I could have bargained even lower, but I was happy to pay that, these guys have to make a living too and compared to the price I can get them in Australia, it was a good deal.

I managed to get a good deal on some Maasai blankets at 670ksh each, most shops sell them around 1200-2000ksh each. 

What I really really wanted was a wooden bowl with the big 5 on it. I saw one in a shop in Australia for $60 and I knew I could get it cheaper. The shop at Amboseli was selling them for about 2500ksh, but I hesitated. 

Anyway, I found what I wanted. The lady asked for 4500ksh. I told her that was the price I would pay back in Australia, so that wasn't a good bargain. She asked me what I wanted to pay. I told her 1800ksh, she negotiated to 2000 (about $30). I should have started lower, but my inexperience made me nervous and E wasn't too sure what they were worth. I wasn't leaving without it though so I parted with 2000ksh and I'm happy. It's exactly what I wanted. It's an oval bowl and has carvings of animals around the rim. I hope it fits in my luggage! I wish I had more money to get another one as a gift, but it wasn't cheap compared to other souvenirs. 

Still, I love it. LOVE IT.

I spent probably more than I would have if I had better negotiating skills, E isn't a shopper so he helped where he could and got the price firm from sellers for me instead of them changing their price half way through negotiations. He thinks I paid too much still. 

Oh well, my first time haggling. Next time I'll be more ruthless! It's hard when you know some items are mass produced and cost next to nothing, but then there are local artisans who have made items themselves and you want to give them an income. I still have some items to buy, but I might just try the mall instead.